Where We Be
Still dry at this point (overlook #7) -- but not for long!
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Our (very long) bucket list has always included
Victoria Falls, or Mosi-oa-Tunya -- "The Smoke
That Thunders." It's just one of those things
we've always wanted to see with our own eyes
someday. Well, today was that day, and we were
not disappointed. This is one of the world's
largest waterfalls; in fact, the only one we can
think of that may have it beat in terms of sheer
visceral wow factor is Iguazu Falls in Argentina
and Brazil .... and not by much.

Knowing we were going to get wet, we waited
until it was warm and sunny before heading out.
Then we walked to the park entrance from our
N1 Hotel (~15 minutes) and paid our entrance
fee on our credit card ($30 pp). Over the next
two hours, we visited each overlook in turn,
starting with #1 (Livingstone Statue) and
finishing with #16 (Bridge Overlook). In June,
anyway, when water levels are still high, we
thought the first eight overlooks offered the
best combination of great views and minimal
spritzing. After that, things got seriously wet!
Danger Point (#15) was the wettest of all -- it felt
like being in the midst of a sudden downpour.

After our park visit, we walked to Victoria Falls
Bridge. It crosses the Zambezi River, connect-  
ing Zimbabwe and Zambia. More on that below.
Overlooks #2 thru #4 offer close-up views of the Devil's Cataract -- which is separate from the main falls. You can
see it spilling down into the turbulent Zambezi River as a column of mist rises up from the main falls in the distance.
Here we see the cobbled path on the way to overlook #5 and beyond
At overlook #6, the views of the main falls really start to get good
Getting lightly spritzed at overlook #6
Wow! The Smoke That Thunders indeed!
Overlooks #9 thru #15 are essentially a washout for us at this time of year --
but we embrace the whole "getting wet" experience and have fun anyway
The final viewpoint (#16) is called Bridge Overlook. You can bungee jump
from this bridge (can you see the rope with the person dangling from it?)
Occasionally the mists part enough to give us glimpses behind the curtain of water --
but even taking your phone or camera out for a few moments is risky at this point
While you can see Victoria Falls Bridge from viewpoint #16, you have to leave
the park altogether and walk more than a mile to get to the actual bridge
The bridge connects Zimbabwe and Zambia and is open to both vehicles and pedestrians (bring your passport or a
good color copy). You'll get this stamped piece of paper that lets you walk across the bridge -- just don't venture
past the immigration checkpoint at the far end. (But yes, you CAN walk past the "Now Entering Zambia" sign.)
Beyond the "Zambia" sign, you'll get misty views
of the falls (perhaps clearer in other months)
That narrow pedestrian bridge in the distance
is called Knife's Edge Bridge and it's in Zambia
This bungee sign marks the bridge's halfway point.
Spectators often gather here to watch the fun.
After about six miles of walking all told, we're glad to get back to
our N1 Hotel -- and the tasty food at the River Brewery next door
Nearby Elephant's Walk Shopping Village is a good place to go for souvenirs or a snack
The following day, we celebrate Robin's birthday with a feta
and rosemary focaccia pizza at Three Monkeys Restaurant
But mostly we're just happy to be out on the water sipping some wine
In the distance you can see mist rising up from Victoria Falls
We get some excellent up-close views of hippos
David Livingstone reached Mosi-oa-Tunya on November 17th, 1855. He called it "the most
wonderful sight I had seen in Africa" and carved his initials and the date into the bark of a tree
on an island at the lip of the falls ("the only time I have been guilty of this act of vandalism").
Each overlook is clearly marked, and the walking is easy and mostly flat
Not a bad way to celebrate a birthday in Zimbabwe
This sign at the entrance to the park gives a
good summary of the different overlooks (#1-16)
One exception is overlook #2, called "38 Steps."
We get our first good view of the falls from here.
Overlook #8, Main Falls, has arguably the best views (at least in June)
Looking straight down, you'll also see what's called
"The Boiling Pot"  -- and, if you're lucky, a double rainbow
The Zambezi River carves a deep path as it heads away from the falls. In certain months you can
go whitewater rafting here, but water levels are too high at present (you have to start lower down).
Later that afternoon, we enjoy a sundowner boat cruise
on the Zambezi River -- Africa's fourth-largest river