Where We Be
 | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  |
| Our favorite restaurant in Shkoder was Te Fisi. If you go, be sure to try Tave Dheu, one of Albania's national dishes. It's the dish shown at right, served with homemade bread for dipping. |
| Shkoder, Albania |
The best thing we did in Shkoder was visit the
Venice Art Mask Factory. Why, you may ask, is
there a Venice art mask factory in Albania of all
places? Well, it seems an Albanian by the name
of Edmond Angoni studied the mask-making
process in Venice and brought the techniques
back to Shkoder, where he founded Venice Art,
now the biggest supplier of handmade Venetian
and masquerade masks in the world. Masks
sold here can run anywhere from €20 to €3,000.
The showroom is free to visit, and what a show-
room! Touring the artisans' factory costs just €3.
The second best thing we did in Shkoder was
visit Rozafa Castle. It's hard to believe we're
saying that was second-best, because Rozafa
Castle is really pretty impressive. Strategically
set atop a rocky hill, its oldest parts date back
to the 4th century. The ruins are photogenic,
and you get great views from above of Shkoder
as well as Shkodra Lake (largest in the Balkans).
Besides these two star attractions, there's more
to like about Shkoder, like the fantastic food (try
the dish called tave dheu), the low cost of living
(a local beer runs €2), and Kole Idromeno, the
pedestrian street at the city’s heart. Shkoder is
sometimes called the "city of bikes" because so
many locals get around by bike. It's also called
the "Gateway to the Albanian Alps." Pop on by --
you may be surprised just how much you like it.
Venice Art Mask Factory. Why, you may ask, is
there a Venice art mask factory in Albania of all
places? Well, it seems an Albanian by the name
of Edmond Angoni studied the mask-making
process in Venice and brought the techniques
back to Shkoder, where he founded Venice Art,
now the biggest supplier of handmade Venetian
and masquerade masks in the world. Masks
sold here can run anywhere from €20 to €3,000.
The showroom is free to visit, and what a show-
room! Touring the artisans' factory costs just €3.
The second best thing we did in Shkoder was
visit Rozafa Castle. It's hard to believe we're
saying that was second-best, because Rozafa
Castle is really pretty impressive. Strategically
set atop a rocky hill, its oldest parts date back
to the 4th century. The ruins are photogenic,
and you get great views from above of Shkoder
as well as Shkodra Lake (largest in the Balkans).
Besides these two star attractions, there's more
to like about Shkoder, like the fantastic food (try
the dish called tave dheu), the low cost of living
(a local beer runs €2), and Kole Idromeno, the
pedestrian street at the city’s heart. Shkoder is
sometimes called the "city of bikes" because so
many locals get around by bike. It's also called
the "Gateway to the Albanian Alps." Pop on by --
you may be surprised just how much you like it.
| The most expensive mask at Venice Art, valued at €3,000, includes fine fabrics, real feathers, Swarovski gems, and gold and silver leaf. Carnival here we come! |
| Shkoder is full of blooms and birdsong in April. European goldfinches in particular sing the most amazing song here. |
| Shkodra Lake -- the largest in the Balkans -- is also visible |
| Heading within, there are three different courtyards and plenty of nooks and crannies to explore |
| The approach to the castle is dramatic |
| But here's the reward -- a castle genuinely worth seeing |
| You mean we have to climb up there? Over those cobblestones? Yikes! |
| Venice Art turned out to be our surprise favorite experience in Shkoder -- and that's saying a lot, because we both love castles (keep reading) |
| The rest of these photos require no captions -- just enjoy the beauty of each handmade creation |
| The showroom is a picture-taker's paradise |
| We asked the fellow who showed us around if we could try on a mask, and he brought us these (not the €3,000 one!) |
| Photos are permitted in the showroom -- and the showroom is stunning |
| Fun fact for movie buffs: the Venetian masks worn by Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman in "Eyes Wide Shut" were created by Albanian artist Edmond Angoni, founder of Venice Art |
| Venice Art is located about 1½ miles north of town -- easily walkable in 30 minutes (or take an inexpensive cab there) |
| This is what the whole mask looks like. Stunning! Imagine showing up in Carnival wearing this! |
| Venice Art Mask Factory |
| Rozafa Castle |
| And with great views of the city of Shkoder and the Albanian Alps |
| Kole Idromeno |
| Ebu Bekr Mosque anchors the western end of Kole Idromeno |
| Kole Idromeno is the main pedestrian thoroughfare through town, and it's chock-full of trendy outdoor cafes |
| The Albanian flag with its double-headed eagle flies proudly over the castle |
