Where We Be
| Standoff on the stairs -- the dog runs if the monkey charges and vice versa |
| Colorful lions stand guard on either side of the thunderbolt |
| Shops line the edges of the temple complex, chock-full of stuff to buy |
| Many doorways in Nepal are intricately carved and beautiful |
| Offering of lit candles at Swayambunath |
| This "celestial thunderbolt," emblematic of the destruction of ignorance, stands at the top of the eastern stairway |
| Not sure of the significance of this "stone garden" |
| Gorgeous 7th century statue at Swayambunath called the Dipanker Buddha carved from a single piece of stone |
| Tiny statue in a niche with devotional candle |
| Even the smallest icons attract devotion |
| Swayambunath stupa is enclosed in scaffolding, and Buddha looks none too happy about it |
| The steep eastern stairway leads up, up, up to Swayambunath |
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| Swayambunath Monkey Temple, Nepal |
The Monkey Temple is located on a hill near the
ring road that encircles Kathmandu. As we
climbed the steep stairs leading to the temple
we saw dozens of rhesus macaque monkeys
lounging, eating, and running around like they
owned the place. Babies clung to their mamas'
bellies and youngsters scampered along the
stair rails like teen skateboarders.
At the top of the stairs is the main stupa. A
stupa is a temple that looks like an inverted
bowl with a golden tower on top. Unfortunately
this one was under scaffolding, but that was
okay since we knew we'd be seeing another in
Bodhnath in just a few days. The temple site at
Swayambunath is lovely: it features dozens of
small shrines, statues, carvings, and candles,
not to mention curio shops exploding with
items to buy and monkey antics at every turn.
Coming early in the morning is good because
you'll find lots of locals performing morning
devotions, lighting butter lamps, murmuring
prayers, touching statues, spinning prayer
wheels, ringing bells, and making offerings. We
walked clockwise around the site, enjoying the
unusual sights and sounds and the sense of
spirituality that permeated the place.
We found a small teashop where we ordered a
full breakfast of chai, potato curry, and omelets
for less than a dollar. We were the only tourists
there at the time. The owner pointed out an old
woman sitting on a bench about ten feet from
us whose face was completely wrinkled and
beautiful and told us she was 102 years of age.
The woman was alert and active, cracking jokes
with her family and laughing merrily the whole
time. The twinkle in her eyes was priceless.
ring road that encircles Kathmandu. As we
climbed the steep stairs leading to the temple
we saw dozens of rhesus macaque monkeys
lounging, eating, and running around like they
owned the place. Babies clung to their mamas'
bellies and youngsters scampered along the
stair rails like teen skateboarders.
At the top of the stairs is the main stupa. A
stupa is a temple that looks like an inverted
bowl with a golden tower on top. Unfortunately
this one was under scaffolding, but that was
okay since we knew we'd be seeing another in
Bodhnath in just a few days. The temple site at
Swayambunath is lovely: it features dozens of
small shrines, statues, carvings, and candles,
not to mention curio shops exploding with
items to buy and monkey antics at every turn.
Coming early in the morning is good because
you'll find lots of locals performing morning
devotions, lighting butter lamps, murmuring
prayers, touching statues, spinning prayer
wheels, ringing bells, and making offerings. We
walked clockwise around the site, enjoying the
unusual sights and sounds and the sense of
spirituality that permeated the place.
We found a small teashop where we ordered a
full breakfast of chai, potato curry, and omelets
for less than a dollar. We were the only tourists
there at the time. The owner pointed out an old
woman sitting on a bench about ten feet from
us whose face was completely wrinkled and
beautiful and told us she was 102 years of age.
The woman was alert and active, cracking jokes
with her family and laughing merrily the whole
time. The twinkle in her eyes was priceless.
| Swayambunath Buddha rocks with his blue hair, red robe, and gold skin |
| Monkeys pretty much have the run of the place |
