Where We Be
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| Verona, Italy |
We stopped in Verona for two nights on our way
from Chamonix to the Dolomites -- in part to
break up a long bus trip, but more importantly to
see fair Verona for the first time, which we'd
missed on previous trips to the region.
We arrived quite late and took an evening stroll
to Piazza Bra, Verona's largest square. This
huge plaza, with streets radiating outward in all
directions, is where much of the action happens
on a Saturday night. Every outdoor restaurant
was packed with diners. Many were dressed to
the nines while eating pasta and drinking wine
by candlelight. On the far side of the piazza, the
romantically lit Arena di Verona rose up -- and if
you listened carefully, you could hear the faint
sound of arias being performed live. Enormous
stage props stood outside the arena, ready to
be moved in for the next night's performance. A
set of Olympic Rings served as a reminder of
the closing ceremonies for the Winter Olympics
that had taken place here just a few months ago.
The whole area seemed magical at night -- and
not just the piazza but side streets too, where
well-lit restaurants served patrons convivially
dining out despite the warmth of the evening (it
was 90 degrees even at that hour). We returned
home by 10 pm and were glad to have made the
effort to go out for a first look around.
from Chamonix to the Dolomites -- in part to
break up a long bus trip, but more importantly to
see fair Verona for the first time, which we'd
missed on previous trips to the region.
We arrived quite late and took an evening stroll
to Piazza Bra, Verona's largest square. This
huge plaza, with streets radiating outward in all
directions, is where much of the action happens
on a Saturday night. Every outdoor restaurant
was packed with diners. Many were dressed to
the nines while eating pasta and drinking wine
by candlelight. On the far side of the piazza, the
romantically lit Arena di Verona rose up -- and if
you listened carefully, you could hear the faint
sound of arias being performed live. Enormous
stage props stood outside the arena, ready to
be moved in for the next night's performance. A
set of Olympic Rings served as a reminder of
the closing ceremonies for the Winter Olympics
that had taken place here just a few months ago.
The whole area seemed magical at night -- and
not just the piazza but side streets too, where
well-lit restaurants served patrons convivially
dining out despite the warmth of the evening (it
was 90 degrees even at that hour). We returned
home by 10 pm and were glad to have made the
effort to go out for a first look around.
| The Arena di Verona -- site of the 2026 Winter Olympics closing ceremonies -- serves as the setting for nightly operas throughout the summer season |
| We luxuriate in the air conditioning of our enormous room at Boutique Hotel Scalzi |
| As the day turns hotter, we head for home, happening upon these words from Shakespeare along the way |
| Built in the first century AD, the Arena di Verona is one of the best- conserved Roman amphitheaters. It can hold up to 22,000 spectators. |
| Workers are already busy setting up the stage for the evening's performance of "Aida" |
| Via Giuseppe Mazzini is a famous pedestrian shopping street connecting Piazza delle Erbe to Piazza Bra |
| Piazza della Erbe is considered one of the most picturesque squares in Italy. In antiquity it served as a Roman forum. It’s called “Herbs Square” because this is where the fruit and vegetable market used to be. |
| Pigeons like statues -- so why not include a pigeon in your statue? This one (of local poet Berto Barbarini) stands near the entrance to Piazza della Erbe. |
| Rubbing Juliet's right breast is said to bring good luck and fortune in love |
| Next up: Juliet's House. This is (supposedly) Juliet's balcony -- rather ironic since Juliet is a fictional character. |
| "Aida" was up next -- so most of the props were Egyptian themed |
| Grand architecture stands at the edges of Piazza Bra. This is Gran Guardia Palace. |
| The Olympic Rings carved in stone -- a reminder of the 2026 Winter Olympics |
| One last look at Piazza Bra in full daylight |
| Piazza Bra at break of day |
| Crowds certainly weren't an issue at this hour |
| The Arena di Verona, on the far side of Piazza Bra, still stood in shadow |
| The morning light was beautiful, but we're glad we also got to see Piazza Bra when it was hopping on a Saturday night |
| Scaligero Bridge at sunrise. The bridge was first built in the 1st century AD before being destroyed during WW II and rebuilt using parts of the original structure. |
| Next morning -- to beat the 100-degree heat expected later that day -- we got up at the crack of dawn for another tour around the city |
| On our way to Piazza Bra, we passed the Museo di Castelvecchio, an impressive 14th-century castle that now houses a fine art gallery |
| The Adige River looked especially pretty at sunset from Scaligero Bridge |
| We got a kick out of seeing the props for the next night's opera stored haphazardly outside the Arena |
| Each night in summer they stage a different opera at the Arena -- a huge undertaking |
| Nearby Casa di Giulietta is Piazza della Erbe -- Verona's second famous piazza |
| The Courtyard of Juliet's House used to be free, but it now costs €5 and requires a reservation time. (Going onto the balcony costs more.) |
| Back at Piazza Bra, we have one more important sight to see -- the Arena di Verona from the inside (€12 as of 2026) |
| We traipse up and down and all around the Arena, checking out the seats in the nosebleed section |
| Practically across the street is La Romana Gelateria |
| My crepe is tasty, but Robin's caramel gelato is out of this world. Needless to say, we visit more than once. |